BLACK HAIR IN HIGH FASHION
As high fashion becomes increasingly diverse, more black women are taking to the runway. What should be a celebratory moment of representation is clouded by the emergence of a subtle trend; the only hairstyles these women sport are buzz cuts, small afros, and cornrows. At first glance, the decision to place models in these styles is inconsequential, but further investigation presents an issue rooted in negligence.
From the set to the nail design each model will don, planning a runway show is a meticulous process. One of the most important details is the hairstyles for each model. Typically, the designer will meet with the head stylist to make this decision. Black women, however, are often an afterthought in this process. Despite the ever-growing number of brands and designers that claim to encourage and celebrate black hair, very little follow through on their word. More often than not, resorting to putting their models in diffused tiny afros or low buns despite the versatility of black hair.
This is particularly problematic because designers are perpetuating eurocentric beauty ideas onto black women. In an interview with Stylist, model Londone Meyers said, “The fashion industry likes girls with afros and braids, but it's like we’re not supposed to have anything else because that’s how they think black girls are supposed to look. It’s like a caricature.” For the models, this is a difficult spot to be in because they are pressured to wear styles that society deems “presentable” in order to avoid discrimination and land jobs. If designers are only able to celebrate and accept black hair under certain circumstances, it’s not truly acceptance.
To that point, designers are often intrigued by the idea of black hair but unwilling to put the work in to actually understand how to work with it. Model Jade Williams opened up about her experience in the modeling industry having natural hair. She talked about how people are enamored by her hair but said things that were offensive or triggering, like, “It feels like I’m knitting when I’m doing your hair,” or “Keep it wild.”
The mistreatment of black hair in modeling, in some part, falls on the hairstylists as well. Ideally, hairstylists should be able to work with a range of textures, but this is not always the case. Models may find themselves in positions where they may have to do their own hair or fix the hair that the stylist did on them. This will lead to a moment where designers might have all the other models with straight hair have elaborate styles but leave a black model with her natural hair. For models, appearance is everything. So, it’s crucial that black models look good on the runway, otherwise, it could cost them their jobs. In an interview with Refinery29, Ghanaian model Munira Zulka described always feeling nervous when sitting down in a stylist's chair. Apart from the job security threat, not having your hair done well is a hit to a model’s confidence. Zulka said, “I’m walking on the runway, and I’m saying to myself, ‘Do I look OK? Why does everyone look pretty and not me? I want to feel pretty and look pretty on the runway. It’s my job, it’s my career.”
Many black models have opened up about their hair crisis stories with hair stylists. Natalia Harris said that a stylist tried to straighten their hair minutes before a show. “You could see the steam and the smoke, and there was pulling and the tugging.” Model Jade Williams said she has had stylists try to make her hair extremely straight, which could potentially damage and ruin her hair, ruining future opportunities.”† Devastatingly, Nyakim Gatwech explains that prior to buzzing her hair, she had an afro. But stylists told her that they didn’t know what to do with her hair and that it was too “nappy.”
This is all part of a bigger issue regarding the lack of diversity and representation in various industries. In “Why Representation Matters and Why It’s Still Not Enough,” Asian-American professor and researcher Kevin Lao Yabut Nadal explores the importance of representation for underrepresented groups. He explains that people of color may struggle with their racial and ethnic identity development as a result of a lack of representation in media. This can result in marginalized people feeling isolated, developing low self-esteem, and negatively impacting their views on race and culture. Representation is crucial for finding community support and validation. Nadal goes on to say that representation is only a step towards equity, not the final goal. Representation is meaningless if it adheres to stereotypes. Representation should be intentional and conscientious about ensuring that it is painting a full picture. “People in power should aim for their content to reflect their audiences-especially if they know that doing so could assist in increasing people’s self-esteem and wellness.”
As black designers and models continue to enter the high fashion space, it is crucial that they refuse to be complacent about the treatment of black people. Just as white designers and hairstylists need to do their part to educate themselves and make an effort to make sure black people are included, black creators should do the same. This is not an issue that can be resolved by waiting for others to take the initiative. Black people deserve to see themselves fully represented and inspired to take on the world in ways that were previously not allowed to.